Morag Jordan describes how the village of La Brigue in the Roya valley celebrates the feast of the Assumption.
La Brigue is a commune in the Alpes Maritimes close to the Italian border where I and my husband Gerard live for part of the year. Much of the village dates from Medieval times and has seven listed Monuments Historiques, including several chapels that belong to the village's 'confraternities'.
Confréries des Pénitents (Penitent Brotherhoods) originated in northern Italy in the late twelfth century and over the centuries became autonomous associations of local lay men and women, each with their own chapel.
La Brigue was unusual in having two separate Pénitents Blancs confraternities, each with their own18th century chapel. These buildings, currently undergoing renovation, are situated on either side of La Brigue’s splendid main church, the Collégiale St Martin.
For religious or charitable events, the members of an individual Confraternity would wear a very simple dress of a particular colour without form or ornament, intended to hide the social differences of civilian clothing. The two confraternities of La Brigue (who wear white robes) have recently united to form a single confraternity and have revived their traditional candlelit procession on the vigil of the feast of the Assumption.
This year's ceremony on the evening of 14th August, was joined by other local confraternities from Tende, Sospel and Monaco. The vigil service commenced at 8.30pm in the Collégiale which was full of local worshippers.
Prayers were said and sung until dusk fell over the village, at which point we departed the church to commence the procession through the village's warren of narrow streets. Tealight candles were placed everywhere to light the way: on window ledges, doorsteps and stone seats.
Four young men carried the statue of Mary, stopping at ten ‘stations’ in various small squares and other areas throughout the village. At each station a small altar had been created to celebrate the virgin Mary and where the procession would stop to pray and sing together, saying the Hail Mary and a prayer to Notre Dame des Fontaines. (La Brigue’s most famous monument is the nearby frescoed chapel of Notre Dame Des Fontaines).
As the procession snaked through the village, many people looked down from their windows where they too had lit candles.
The Vigil was a most moving occasion, not only because the village looked so beautiful with so many people having taken trouble to honour Mary with the altars, but also because of the feeling of community as everyone walked together, young and old alike, and in particular in the knowledge this vigil has taken place over many centuries and across generations of families processing together through the village.
Below is a gallery of photos of the many small altars honouring Mary which were created all around the village. A french Wikipedia page contains further information about the Confrérie des pénitents blancs de La Brigue
Comments